Hi everyone. The Birchbark Slippers didn’t work out for me. That is entirely my fault however. I made them too big because I was overthinking the whole thing. I try to modify patterns before actually following them and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t.
The yarn I used is YarnBee in “Lovely”. It’s a beautiful multi-color yarn. The problem is that it is hard to rip back, so I wasn’t able to recover any of the yarn that I used to make the first slipper. Determined to use this yarn for something though, I bravely forged ahead and improvised a fingerless glove pattern which I shall share with you momentarily.
YarnBee First Love, color No. 100 “Lovely”, 100% polyester, #5 bulky. As you can see it consists of a fine ply intertwined with a thicker ply. It’s easy to slip the hook into that finer thread, and that is what makes it hard to rip back mistakes. I highly recommend this yarn though, it is delicious.
Finished Fingerless glove. Finished piece is about 7″ long.
I decided to use this bright scrap yarn to stitch up the sides, because I wanted to make it part of the design. You can also easily turn the piece inside out and make a hidden seam up the side if you wish. This was a personal preference. Normally I hide my seams.
This pattern is also available on my ravelry Designer Page
Super Simple Fingerless Gloves
Yarn: any yarn works for this. A #4 or #5 yarn is best for thicker gloves. If you change yarn size though, be sure to pick a hook that fits the yarn.
I used YarnBee First Love in “Lovely” #5
Hook: K / 6.5mm
Gauge: Mine ended up being 6 sts = 2″ and 4 rows = 2″ BUT, gauge is not important to this project.
NOTE: after doing a couple of rows of the pattern, try to fit it around one of your hands (or the hand of the person who will wear them) to make sure it will fit. My hands are medium-ish, so if you have smaller or larger hands you may need to re-chain accordingly.
ch2 counts as 1st dc
Making the Square
Ch 26, turn
R1: SC in 2nd ch from hook and in ea st across (25), ch2, turn
R2: Dc in first st and ea st across (25 dc + ch2), ch 2, turn
Repeat R2 until piece is 7″ long or however long you wish. Mine ended up being 14 rows total counting the first row of SC, but NOT counting the crabstitch.
When piece is as long as you want it to be, ch 1 and do NOT turn. Reverse SC (aka Crabstitch) along the top of piece. FO and weave in end.
Crab Stitch Tutorial on YouTube (I did not make, nor do I own this video. It’s simply linked here as an instructional tool until I can make my own videos)
Measuring and Seaming
Yarn: Any yarn can be used for this. I used UltraPima in teal (I don’t recall the color number).
Hook: Any hook to fit the yarn. I used a G hook for this part.
4 stitch markers or safety pins to mark thumb holes.
1. Lay the piece flat with the RS down (either side can be the RS, personal preference)
2. Lay one of your hands at the edge and pull it closed around the top part of your hand above the thumb. Mark through both sides with a stitch marker.
3. Pull the glove closed around the bottom of your hand under the thumb. Mark at the place it feels most comfortable.
4. SL through both sides of the fabric at the bottom and then SC or any stitch you like to the first marker. FO and weave in.
5. SL through both sides of fabric beginning at the next stitch marker and SC or any stitch you like to the top. FO and weave in.
Repeat for other glove using other hand.
You can go around the entire border of the square with contrasting or complimentary yarn before stitching them together. The crab stitch is awkward at first, but makes a really neat border for most any project.
Questions? E-Mail or comment below.
You can also find me at Ravelry.com NCC-1701
(This pattern is copyrighted. You may sell products made from this pattern royalty-free, but please link to my blog and give credit where due. You may not reprint and sell this pattern for profit without written permission.)